Wes Hennings never met a meal he walked away from and is an opinionated eater! Each Thursday, he shares the results of a business lunch he’s had with a colleague as a way to advise our business community on the good, bad, and the tasty across the CSRA. He doesn’t let ABD or the restaurant know where he is going and his opinions are his own. He grades the restaurants he visits on a 1-5 scale with “5” being outstanding. We call this our “Real Business Lunch Review”.
Food Quality: 4
Business Meeting: 3
Average Score: 4 of 5
I was running errands around town and found myself needing some grub this week. That’s when I spotted A Town Wings on Baston Road and Riverwatch. The problem? It’s attached to a gas station, and my life experience has told me that this type of establishment is always a gamble. Still, I pulled in and hoped for some tasty chicken in short order.
It would seem as though wings would be the featured item, but the ads in the windows all advertised low country boil. And then upon entering, there’s actually a fairly diverse menu including fish and Philly cheesesteaks. Seafood served within 100 feet of a gas pump never sounds appealing to me, so I opted for the chicken tenders, as wings seemed a little too involved for quick eats.
I was happy to see that three strips with fries and a drink were less than ten bucks, but also elevated from what you’d get at a true fast food establishment. One hardworking guy was behind the counter answering phones, taking orders, and handing out food. After ordering, I grabbed a drink and sat down at one of the few tables in a fairly larger space, making the restaurant seem even more sparsely populated than it was. That’s when I realized the majority of folks were there for takeout. I was also relieved to see that real doors separated the diner from the gas station, so it felt more like eating in a strip mall than a convenience store.
It took about ten minutes to get my order, but it was fresh and hot, and pretty dang tasty. I’m a sucker for crinkle fries, and I don’t think the tenders were hand-breaded, but they satisfied a craving and didn’t taste like the warmed-over mystery meat that is usual gas station fare. But the actual star of the show was the buttered bread, while it was a bit soggy, it surprised with a slight taste of honey, making it savory and a little sweet. I opted out of a couple of my fries to make sure I had room for all the bread. And that’s not usual for me.
It was only after my meal that I did a little research. It would be easy to assume this is a one-off restaurant, and that A Town is our little hamlet here on the river. But no. This is an import from the bigger A town down I-20, and it turns out these wings are featured in towns around the Southeast. There are actually 5 in the CSRA, and they’ve been hiding in plain sight (mostly in the southern part of the city, where I make it less frequently).
While it’s not a dining establishment made to impress, it’s a pretty tasty meal that’s quick to grab on the go, but elevated from what you’d normally get in a drive-through. And while I may still be leery of the low country boil, I may have to drop in again for that cheesesteak.
A Town Wings
190 Baston Road